An Exclusive Interview With
Mr. Gerald
Andersen
Executive Director Emeritus
Mens Dress Furnishings Association
All About Shirts & Ties
Recently, we had the privilege
of interviewing Mr. Gerald Andersen, former Executive
Director of the Men's Dress Furnishings Association to get a
very unique perspective on men's fashions. Mr. Andersen
has a 40 year perspective and passion for menswear. We are
honored and grateful to Mr. Andersen and wanted to share his
insights with you.
Jerry, thank you for taking the
time to answer a few questions for us today. Our clients
are all career professionals and are very interested in dressing
well. Your insight will be invaluable so if you're
ready... let's begin
Boardroom Ties
About Shirts
Over the
years, what transformation have you seen in dress shirt styles.
Jerry: There have been a host
of style changes, obsolescence, and revivals. Collars have
gotten longer, and then shorter in response to changing neckwear
widths and suit lapel widths. However, I think there was more
diversity in collar styles 20 years ago than today. The tab
collar and pin collar were mainstream items then but today, they
are hard to find. In fabrics, back in the 60’s and 70’s everyone
was enamored of permanent press and poly-cotton blends. For a
short time, even double knit dress shirts had their day. In the
80’s there was a trend back to natural fibers-cotton in shirts
and silk in ties. Today it's hard to find a polyester tie, but
in the 70’s they were dominant. In shirts, I think the
biggest development in recent years has been the true permanent
press cotton shirts. The products I have tried really perform
well and can be worn, wrinkle free, right out of the dryer.
Boardroom Ties
Shirt Collars and Ties
What effect
has the transformation in dress shirt styles had on neckties.
Jerry: The relationship
between collars and tie widths has always been symbiotic. It is
my opinion that, more often than not, changes in tie width have
forced changes in dress shirt collars. This was certainly true
in 1968 when Ralph Lauren first came out with the wide tie and
the shirt industry had to play catch up.
Boardroom Ties
How To Pick a Shirt Collar Style
What effect
has the transformation in dress shirt styles had on neckties.
Jerry: I think there is more
than one answer to that question since it depends on a guy’s
facial type. For example, a straight, long collar shirt does not
compliment a long thin face. Someone with this configuration
should go with a shorter, more spread collar. Pick a shirt
collar that compliments the shape of your face by holding the
shirt up in the mirror and see for yourself what a difference
the collar makes for you.
Boardroom Ties
How To Pick Tie Knots
What tie
knots do you think go with each collar styles.
Jerry: Straight collars call
for smaller knots (the four-in-hand). Spread collars call for
wider knots like the Windsor and half-Windsor. Pin and tab
collars also call for smaller knots so they can fit between the
collar points.
I
personally like the four-in-hand knot. I prefer the button-down
collar shirts (I can’t keep track of the darn collar stays other
types require) and a well dimpled four-in-hand works best. To
me, the dimple separates the man who knows how to wear a tie
from the one who doesn’t.
Boardroom Ties
Dressing For Business
How important
do you think is dressing for business these days and what advice
would you give a young man who is in the business world today.
Jerry: I think it is very
important to dress well and perhaps, more than ever these days.
Obviously, if you are in an environment where everyone is
casual, you will stand out like a sore thumb in a suit and tie.
It is difficult for guys these days to deal with all the
possible scenarios. It was much easier in the Mad Men era when
everyone knew how they were expected to look. My advice would be
to err on the side of caution and run the risk of overdressing,
rather than run the risk of looking unprofessional by being
casual. However, whenever you are meeting clients and customers
in a business setting, suit and tie is de-rigueur. Dressing up
is not only a sign of professionalism, but a sign of respect to
others.
Boardroom Ties
How To Pick Your Suit
Looking at today's styles and color trends in suits, what seems
to be the most prevalent business style when it comes to suits.
Jerry: You are asking the
wrong guy. I am a furnishings fanatic. I always keep my suit
basic, natural shoulder, three buttons. I favor navy, charcoal
and khaki (in the summer). My fashion statement comes from my
furnishings. The suit is my shop window, the necktie is my
jewel.
Boardroom Ties
How Many Ties
You may have heard many numbers over the years, but we are going
to ask anyway... what are the number of ties a typical man has
in his closet.
Jerry: Years ago
the number bandied about was 30-40. This may have been true in
the day of the one dollar necktie, but doubt it is true today.
One thing that has been noted is that men tend to stockpile ties
and only a small portion of their collection is active at any
given moment. It’s hard to part with that tie you wore when you
proposed to your wife or when you got the big promotion. I
always tell men they should have two or three ties for each
dress shirt. The tie is what makes that shirt look different
than the last time you wore it.
Jerry.... Thank you.... we are very
appreciative for your time!
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